Desultory style notes (they’re back!)

January 16th, 2007 by MrLuxuryFashionGuru

I must get to bed soon.  But it is Men’s Fashion Week in Milan, so a few random observations are in store:

Early trends indicate that Fall/Winter ’08 isn’t going to be particularly revolutionary (unlike the big volume and silhouette developments during the FW07 season).  Nonetheless, there are some trends shaping up. 

– The biggest news is the Sci-Fi trend, which picks up from the SS07 womenswear shows (see Balenciaga’s articulated metallic pants or Fendi’s plastic dresses).  Dolce & Gabbana showed space jumpsuits in super-shiny gold, silver and bronze, not to mention shoes, belts, bags, suits et al in the same blinding synthetics.  Alexander McQueen sent his models out looking like android warlords a la Spock or Data with plasticised faces and enameled hair.  The look is other-worldly, futuristic and high-tech.  Very editorial.  Expect to see less over-the-top touches filter through to a wardrobe near you – certainly the metallic accessories and high-performance details.

– Bespoke details are also asserting themselves – exaggerated “winged” shoulders were seen in abundance, especially at Bottega Veneta, but also at McQueen and Burberry.  The IHT has already noted the “Su misura” explosion, but the Pitti Uomo shows in Florence that showcased fine Italian (and English etc.) tailoring just prior to the menswear shows in Milan were also a strident testament to the trade.  Just as women were increasingly shifted towards mannered high-fashion looks over the past few years, men are also being deliberately educated on the finer points of fit and construction, so expect high street offerings next year to become ever more rigorous in execution.

– Military looks, as always, inspire many menswear pieces, although the period literalism of FW06 is fading away.  Instead, updated versions of the trench coat, the bomber jacket, the high-laced boot are showing up on almost all runways.

And for right this moment, you should already own: the slim warm-amber belt.  The dusky orange/burnt sienna/rust colored belt (think Hermes) is an essential part of the look-of-the-season, pairing perfectly with the must-have and ubiquitous soft-suede lace-up dress low-boots in warm brown that have become the new wardrobe staple.  And keep it slim for a subtle yet unmistakable injection of chic color to your ensemble.  Don’t worry, no fashion-aware or stylish person will fail to notice!

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